- Sources of noise in the car
- Bonnet soundproofing
- Soundproofing doors
- Soundproofing the ceiling and floor of the machine
- Soundproofing of a trunk, wheel arches, arches
- The best noise insulation materials
- How to disassemble and where to use what material?
Since the work on soundproofing a car is a long and laborious process, then to complete the procedure you need to find a warm garage (if you don't have your own). It must have a viewing hole in it - it will be more convenient to process the bottom. Before starting work, the interior is cleaned, the car is washed.
To work you need the following tools:
- Building hair dryer.
- Roller. This is an inexpensive tool that will help you "roll" the Shumka to the body tightly.
- Degreaser. You should not neglect it, because preliminary surface treatment is the key to a good result.
Sources of noise in the car
Before proceeding with the work, it is necessary to find out where the extraneous noise in the cabin comes from. Such sources are conventionally divided into two categories:
- Internal. Plastic and unsecured metal elements of the passenger compartment emit a characteristic knock or squeak, which cannot be eliminated by soundproofing the body. Other noise sources include ashtray covers and glove compartment covers. For some car models, such "sounds" are natural (more often these are many budget cars).
- External. This category includes the rest of the noise generated outside the passenger compartment. It could be the sound of a motor, howl cardan transmission, the roar of a burnt-out muffler, the noise of tires, window parts, etc.
After the motorist has determined the nature of external noises, it is necessary to eliminate the cause of their occurrence (if possible), only then should the sound insulation be started.
No need to think that hood insulation is a panacea for all problems. Even with perfect execution, you will only reduce the sound penetrating into the cabin, but in no way get rid of them completely.
Note that in this case we are talking more about thermal insulation, which is extremely important during frosts. When selecting materials, pay attention to their weight, as it is not recommended to heavily weight the hood - this can cause shock absorbers to leak. Often, vibroplast silver and an accent of 10 mm are used for noise and heat insulation of the hood.
Please note that if there is factory soundproofing on the hood, you do not need to tear it off. What you overlay on top of it has a secondary function, not a main function.
Pasting with "Shumkoy" of this part of the body will save you from most of the extraneous sounds. To fulfill the "minimum plan", one vibration isolation is enough with the help of "vibroplast-silver" or "gold". Apply the material to the inside of the door, opposite the column. Remember that for the best effect, you need to process the maximum area.
In order for the acoustics to sound "in a new way", you will have to apply at least 4 layers. As a basis, you can take the same "vibroplast-silver" or "gold", we glue it on the inside of the door. On top of it we lay a "splen" 4-8 mm. Further, under the skin we glue the "Shumka", making sure to seal all the holes. At this stage, you need to seal the volume of the door in which the speaker is located. We glue the outer part with "vibroplast-silver", and over it again "splen".
There is a drain inside the bottom of the doors, so the Shumka cannot be glued to the very bottom.
After that, you can move on to isolating the door cards. Here the material "Bitoplast" will come in handy, which will get rid of squeaks and other noises.
Pay close attention to the weight during operation so that the doors do not become too heavy. Otherwise, you will have to change the hinges much more often, since the load on them will increase accordingly.
The roof of the car is insulated in order to save people in the cabin from loud "drum roll" in the rain. The muffled bangs can, in a sense, even increase the comfort inside the cabin.
Of course, this type of noise isolation also protects against other sound sources, but this is no longer so significant.
In this case, the basis will again be "vibroplast silver" or "gold", and on top of it you can stick a splen 4-8 mm.
When working on the roof of the car, make sure not to overload it with additional weight. This could impair vehicle handling.
In order to isolate yourself from the sounds of the road and, in particular, from the knock of small stones hitting the bottom of the car, you can make noise insulation of the floor of your vehicle. Two layers of insulator will suffice for this. The first will be "bimast bombs", and on top of it a 4-8 mm spleen.
You need to be careful with the wiring: it is impossible for it to be under the noise insulation.
Work especially carefully with the places of the wheel arches. We are talking about their part from the side of the cabin. They need to be pasted over in one layer, as a thick slotted spoon may prevent the plastic from fixing in place.
To make your car less noisy, cover the plastic lining of the trunk with Bitoplast, which will muffle the squeaks. Particular attention should be paid to the “spare wheel” niche - completely treat it with vibration isolation.
Of course, in order not to listen to the notorious "sounds of the road" in the car, you should make noise in the wheel arches. To do this, remove the wheel arch liners and apply "vibroplast gold" to the inner side of the arch, and apply "Silver.
By the way, wheel arches can also be gravelled. Firstly, it will improve the sound insulation in the car, and secondly, it will protect the body from corrosion.
If you really want to improve sound insulation, then we do not recommend saving on materials. With a small budget, it is better to "stretch" the process in time and paste over the body parts one by one: first the hood, two months later the doors, and even later the roof and the floor. Well, or in another order.
Below are the most popular insulation materials.
It is an elastic material used for noise and vibration isolation. It looks like an aluminum foil with a self-adhesive backing. Of the advantages, it is worth noting the ease of installation, anti-corrosion properties and water resistance. In some cases, "silver" can act as a sealant. Does not require warming up during installation. The weight of the material is 3 kilograms per square meter, and the thickness is 2 millimeters.
This is the same "silver", only thicker - 2,3 mm, heavier - 4 kilograms per square meter and, accordingly, has higher insulating performance.
It is the material with the highest efficiency in vibration isolation. It is a multi-layer, waterproof construction. Great for audio preparation of speakers.
During installation, it needs to be warmed up to 40-50 degrees Celsius, so you need a hair dryer.
The material is quite heavy: 6 kg / m2 at a thickness of 4,2 mm, but the insulating properties are at the highest level.
This material has high sound and heat insulation properties. It is waterproof and can withstand extreme temperatures - from -40 to +70 Celsius. This is when it comes to exploitation. But it is forbidden to mount "splen" at temperatures below +10 degrees, because of poor initial adhesion.
The thickness is 4 mm, and the weight is 0,42 kg / m2. This material is presented on the market in other thicknesses - 2 and 8 mm, with the corresponding names "Splen 3002" and "Splen 3008".
This polymer material has amazing sound-absorbing and thermal insulation properties. It can be used as a sealant. It perfectly removes bounce and squeaks in the vehicle interior, is durable, resistant to decomposition and water resistance. It has an adhesive base, which makes it easy to install.
"Antiskrip" is light - only 0,4 kg per square meter, with a thickness of half a centimeter.
It is a flexible material that is used for noise and heat insulation. It is capable of absorbing up to 90% of sounds, which makes it very practical. Has an adhesive layer for easier installation. Withstands colossal temperature fluctuations - from -40 to +100 degrees, due to which it can be used on the partition of the car's engine compartment.
The thickness of the "accent" is 1 centimeter, weight is 0,5 kg / m2.
This material has a sealing and decorative function. Has a release liner and an adhesive layer.
The thickness can vary from 1 to 1,5 mm.
How to disassemble and where to use what material?
Before dismantling the interior elements, you must remember where which part is installed. Otherwise, you can incorrectly assemble the skin back or spend a lot of time on it. For simplicity, detailed photos can be taken.
Works on preparation for sound insulation:
- Hood. Many modern cars have a protective cover on the back of the hood. It is secured with clips. To remove it, experts recommend using a puller designed for this work. If the procedure is performed for the first time, then two such instruments will be required (inserted with forks from both sides). The clip is removed with a sharp and firm upward motion. Do not be afraid that the plastic clips will break - you can buy them at a car dealership. The windscreen washer hoses run under the cover. For convenience, they should be disconnected.
- Doors. To get to the inside, you will need to remove the door cards. They are also held on clips, and the handles (sometimes pockets) are fixed with bolts. First, the bolts are unscrewed, and then the clips snap off along the perimeter of the card. Each brand of car has its own clips, so first you should clarify how they are attached and removed. Usually, the card can be removed by grasping one side with both hands (near the clip) and pulling it towards you. This makes it less likely that the retainer will break. After the acoustics and power window wiring are disconnected.
- Floor. First, all seats are removed (bolted to the floor). This procedure must be performed carefully so as not to scratch the panel, otherwise additional work will have to be done (how to remove scratches from plastic, you can read here). Then all the plastic plugs are removed throughout the cabin, the seat belt fasteners are unscrewed and the plastic door sill covers are removed. The seals must only be removed where they are adjacent to the plastic sill covers. Next, the interior carpet is rolled up.
- The trunk. First, the drums of the seat belts are unscrewed, then the plastic clips on the rear arches snap off. Due to the fact that there are no more seats in the cabin, the carpet can be removed through the trunk.
- Ceiling. If it has a hatch, then it is better not to touch it. The headliner is secured with clips around the perimeter and bolts on the handles on the sides. In the center at the place where the shades are attached, the ceiling is fixed in different ways, so you need to see what the manual of a particular model says. The trim can be removed from the passenger compartment through the rear door (or the rear door, if the car station wagon or hatchback).
During the execution of work, it is important to pay attention to the following subtleties:
- Bolts and nuts from individual elements of the cabin must be folded into different containers so as not to waste time on selecting the right one during assembly;
- If rust is found, it must be removed and the place treated with a converter;
- All metal parts must be degreased, but before that, remove dust and dirt (perhaps wash the car from the inside), because the Shumka will not stick to the metal;
- Factory vibration isolation is not removed or degreased (it consists of bitumen, which will spread out under the influence of alcohol-containing substances);
- The factory sound insulation is removed if it interferes with pasting the vibration isolation or does not allow the interior elements to be installed in place;
- For adhesion to metal, vibration isolation is heated (the maximum temperature is +160 degrees, if higher, it boils and loses its effectiveness). For a canvas with a thickness of more than 4 mm, this procedure is mandatory;
- The vibration isolation must be properly pressed with a roller (as far as there is enough strength so that it is difficult to tear it off) - this way it will not come off during prolonged vibration;
- When processing the floor and ceiling, try to use solid canvases (with the exception of stiffeners - they must be left without insulation);
- The canvases must be cut outside the passenger compartment so as not to scratch the body (due to this, rust will appear);
- In order not to stain the interior, work must be done with clean hands - washed and degreased;
- The sealing gum should not be completely removed, but only where they will interfere with gluing the Shumka;
- Vibration isolation must be glued where you can press it tightly with a roller to the metal, and noise isolation - where your hand can reach to press the adhesive base;
- All holes must be made immediately as soon as they are closed with a canvas (otherwise it will complicate the process of assembling the cabin);
- The clips must be removed only with direct movements (either vertically or horizontally), otherwise they will break;
- The thicker the layer, the denser the interior element will be installed, so you do not need to be too zealous, otherwise you will have to cut off the excess.
Despite the fact that the process of insulating a car is laborious, its result is increased comfort even in a budget car.